Ah, democracy. Is there anything it can’t ruin? I speak here not of obvious things like Iraq, or California, but of those finer pursuits better left untouched by the masses, things like journalism, pornography, and gourmet magazines. Such was the reaction this January when Bon Appand#233;tit underwent a minor relaunch; let’s call it a reheating. A quick glance at the food blogs reveals a sense of betrayal, slightly informed by snobbery, at the “dumbing down” of Condand#233; Nast’s beloved gastro-pub. Apparently, the February issue’s cover recipe called for some prepackaged pancake mix. Won’t somebody think of the children?!

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